We Tried Athletic Brewing Co’s NA Dark & Gourdy Pumpkin & Spice Beer

Whether you love it or hate it (and, let’s face it, it’s a divisive brewskie), it’s not hard to find a good pumpkin beer this time of year. But if you’re looking for a good, spicy NA pumpkin beer, options are few. That’s why I was so happy to see Athletic Brewing Co. wasn’t just doing a classic pumpkin ale for their “Brew of the Month,” they’re offering something called Dark & Gourdy Pumpkin & Spice.

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So obviously I bought a sixer, slapped Sleepy Hollow, and had to try it. Here’s how it went.

Athletic Brewing Co. Dark & Gourdy Pumpkin & Spice

Pros: This works really well. The name “Dark & Gourdy” is pretty perfect because that’s exactly what you get―plus a subtle, pleasantly lingering sprinkle of spice. In fact, the words “Pumpkin & Spice” are smaller on the (a very festive, fun orange) can. And that’s apt, since―unlike a ton of pumpkin beers―this one puts the pumpkin flavor in a secondary role. Athletic says they use ginger, nutmeg, and cinnamon (the basic three spices you’d expect), but the blend is so even and subtle you really can’t pinpoint any of them. They’re warming, woody, and just a tad playful (and that’s the Holy Grail of pumpkin spicing, friends). 

The main winner here, though, is the malt―and that’s perfect for a porter. Porters tend to play up malt characteristics differently and there’s no need to go into that delicious variety right now because all we care about is how the maltiness in the Dark & Gourdy is rich and dark without feeling heavy. The roasted flavor almost imparts mocha-type notes.

Cons: It’s a reach, because I’d call this NA pumpkin porter a general success, But the IBU (bitterness level) is listed as a 20 (which is low, the scale goes from 0 to 120+). And that’s fine, but the bitterness tastes a bit more present than that. So I had to knock off a spork. 

FINAL VERDICT: 

NA or otherwise, in a season of pumpkin, well, everything, more pumpkin beers (especially in the darker styles) should aspire to this level of balance. The pumpkin is expertly reserved, barely there, hardly sweet, with almost a fleshy tonal counterpoint to the spice and bracing coffee-like malt notes. And since it’s a porter (unlike a thicker stout), you get all that depth and warming spice in a lighter-bodied beer. This malty depth is absolutely worth your attention (with no scene-stealing pumpkin or spice racks crashing through).